Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. “With a handful of existing 8c+ [V16] boulders in the world, proposing 9a [V17] is the logical step. This is not the first time Ghisolfi has tried a V17 boulder problem. On the Careless Talk Climbing Podcast, which Roberts co-hosts with Sam Prior (and which I find delightful), Roberts has spoken about his progress on the Alphane Right project, which he considers harder than the V17 left exit, and the ultra-crimpy Midnight Project —but only on the podcast’s Patreon page have we really gotten a glimpse of. Raboutou has some interesting notes about the problem: “Alphane is a pretty weird line. Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. After Shawn Raboutou's 🇺🇸 FA on Alphane back in April last year, Will Bosi is now the third person to ever send the boulder. The 24-year-old has confirmed the grade as 9A/V17. 11) at Traprock in Connecticut. The second video, Bosi and his coach, Lattice founder Tom Randall, sit down to chat about Will Bosi’s training development and present tactics. Often i think reframing, meaning helping the climber understand why they are doing something or feel a certain way. Watch on. The world’s third V17 boulder problem now has a second graduate, with the young Brit calling his send an “amazing. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Categories: News Tags. Today on Instagram, he finally put those rumours to bed with his announcement of his first ascent of the longstanding Megatron project in Colorado’s. Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. Climb list:Grape Ape 8A+ (v12) FARagot FM 8A (. Michael Levy. As though this wouldn’t be enough to make it on the list, Shawn also made the first ascent of The Story of Three World’s V16, climbing it. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. Simon Lorenzi on Alphane ©Gilles Charlier When speaking about Alphane, Giuliano Cameroni commented on the diversity of the moves, describing the boulder as being simultaneously extremely powerful and. Will sending Alphane (V17) Image by Sam Pratt. 15b). First Ascent: Nalle Hukkataival, October 2016. If “Alphane” and “Megatron” are both confirmed at V17, Shawn would be the first person to have sent two V17 / 9A routes. “In terms of a grade, I personally felt that Honey Badger (V16) was more of a. For example if alphane was easier than burden, then it's a decision to be made if both are v17, or are they v16&17 or v17&18. I was psyched to recreate two interesting moves I saw from the videos and stitch them together into something @. Up to 10% OFF climbing training gear with code FOCUS10 at the EpicTV Shop: the CAMP competition: this we. Will Bosi has released a film that documents his send of Alphane V17, as well as ascents of Forgotten Gem V15 and Vecchio Flash V13. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. There are certainly climbers that have done more V17 boulders if that is the benchmark of "strongest". r/climbing. Be part of the community. Snippets are a new way to share audio!I've seen a few places disregard Soudain Seul as a possible 9A, stating Alphane as the 3rd (after BOD and ROTSW). Get more from The Nugget Climbing Podcast. They're effectively a Free-to-Play option. Écoutez EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style et 237 plus d'épisodes de The Nugget Climbing Podcast. , Ghisolfi also spent a day working the moves on the now famous Burden of Dreams V17 replica with Bosi. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Low. Coaching can be use periodically or weekly, for technique, strength, tactics and reframing. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. I'm curious what people's experiences have been with training finger strength, and how that has consequently affected their endurance. “Having achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing,” Hukkataival wrote on his Instagram. Footage of Bosi’s send of Dreamtime. . Below that, it really depends if there is a compelling story behind the ascent. British climber Will Bosi has made the second repeat of Alphane (f9A), proposed to be the world's fourth Font 9A boulder. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. The rig joins the ranks aside Nalle. A post shared by Aidan Roberts (@aidan. Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland broke her own Speed world record with a time of 6. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. Only three V17 problems. MailHukkataival, who has climbed at least one V15/16, suggested that the problem opened a new domain of difficulty. First climbed in Spring 2022, Alphane has already seen four ascents (by Shawn Raboutou, Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi, and Simon Lorenzi), which makes it the world's most repeated V17 and has given the. Filmed in January 2023 over a three-week bouldering trip in Hueco Tanks, Texas, the 45-minute film features an all-women crew of strong double-digit Canadian and American boulderers. On April 6, 2022, Shawn Raboutou made the First Ascent of a V16 boulder named ‘ Alphane ‘. Writing on his Instagram, Aidan said: 'This one was a pretty amazing experience to live. K. Achievements that were once deemed impossible, like free soloing El Cap, climbing the Dawn Wall, or establishing a V17 boulder, are all realities thanks to the new breed of superhuman climbers and their range of cutting-edge equipment. K. Share your videos with friends, family, and the worldCheck out this great listen on Audible. Although it is open-ended, the range of the scale so far is V0 - V17, meaning that the most difficult bouldering surface climbed so far was rated V17. It happened. The 40-minute film showcases many Roberts hardest sends including Alphane 9A, Isles of Wonder Sit V16, and Vecchio Leone Sit V16. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoThis is the first ascent of the world's third suggested V17. EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants. The line is to the left of Alphane Moon 8A. Nick Brown UKC. The block is located in Lappnor, Finland, and was established by Nalle Hukkataival after three years and over 4,000 attempts – an incredible demonstration of persistence and willpower. Shawn's ascent of Alphane is the first proposed 9a in Switz. This video is the third in a series titled “National Parks Epic Challenge,” produced by The National Park Foundation. Will Bosi, Scottish crimpmonster ahoy, recently visited Chironico in Switzerland in the company of Aidan Roberts. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. 20th August, 2022. Will Bosi and Aidan have both previously climbed Font 8C+ but Aidan's repeat of Alphane is. In October, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. It was the culmination of a three month journey. my guess is the beastmaker has more rounded edges so it needs to be a bit deeper then seeing that the smallest here is 15mm. K. By 1995, he'd made 2,000 ascents of the line. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. Alphane had two quick repeats, full story here. . Read more on gripped. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. 15b) in Margalef, Spain, on the last day of 2015. Alphane saw its fourth ascent on the 15th of December 2022 by Simon Lorenzi after spending a few sessions on it throughout the year. K, and opened and repeated a bunch of V15’s. Bosi is one of only two climbers in the. Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. Nichols made the first ascent on aid in September 1975. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Hard Ascents for Pete Whittaker in Patagonia . Last month the British climber Will Bosi joined an elite club that includes just Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert, and now himself—he is the sixth person ever to climb 9b+ [5. According to the French climbing magazine Grimper, Charles Albert, a French climber known for hard barefoot ascents, has made the first ascent of a Fontainebleau problem and proposed 9a/V17 for the grade. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of Wonder Low. Field Tested: Metolius Anchor ‘Draws, the “Dad Draws” to End all Dad Draws. William (Will) Bosi (born 27 December 1998) is a Scottish professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Subscribe. television. Bosi claimed the. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds, and V17’s Alphane and Megatron. Слухайте EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style та ще 242 епізоди у The Nugget Climbing Podcast, безкоштовно! Без реєстрації чи установки. On March 30, Daniel Woods topped out a new sit start to Sleepwalker (V16) in Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoChris Sharma working on the first ascent of First Round, First Minute. New V17’s have been established in the meantime, including Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. Since July, Bosi has sent two V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. 18th November, 2022. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Whew—the event had a lot of significant backstory, but it all wove together wonderfully and allowed some new names to shine and some new stars to rise at Seoul’s Jungnang Sport Climbing Stadium. Check out this video of the 24-year-old American climbing “Alphane” outside ChironicoOwen Clarke. r/climbing. The Last Tepui: Una aventura cientifica y de escalada 02/05/2022. Welcome to r/climbing's Daily Discussion Thread, a thread for questions and comments everyone wants to make but don't warrant their own thread. Will Bosi has made the first repeat of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams 9A, the world's first 9A boulder in Lappnor, east of Helsinki, Finland. ”. instead of projecting Alphane or Megatron, then it seems pretty likely he would have a similar “résumé. If “Alphane” and “Megatron” are both confirmed at V17, Shawn would be the first person to have sent two V17 / 9A routes. Aidan Roberts. Connect With Us Home » Climbing » With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat The world’s third V17 boulder downside now has a second graduate, with the…Girls Gone Hueco is an exciting new bouldering film from climber and producer Midori Buechli. Categories: Video Tags: News. "Before that, Aidan Roberts and he both took a similar approach to repeat Alphane (V17/9A). If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the. After he announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. Check out this exclusive interview with the man with the strongest fingers in the business! Nice one Will!He believes the grade is lower-end V16, harder than his recent send of Forgotten Gem V15 but easier than Honey Badger V16 or Alphane V17. On February 26, 63-year-old Ken Nichols made his 10,000th ascent of the traditional route Dol Guldur (5. His most noteworthy ascents, however, have to be Megatron and Alphane, both of which are V17 boulders. Adam Ondra is the only one to climb 2 grades harder (or Will Bosi as well if king capella gets. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. K. lesmalan. nu’s world boulderer rankings. Matt Fultz has made the second ascent of the stunning Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+/V16) in Brione, Switzerland. Watch Will Bosi Climb Alphane (V17) and Chat About His Training Interview: How Ben Hanna Became the Athlete He Wanted to Be Bubble Wrap: Woods' FA of Gym ProblemAlphane (V17) 2nd Ascent - Is Burden of Dreams Next? | Lattice Newsletter, October 2022 Lattice Training sent this email to their subscribers on October 28, 2022 . N to 5. Discover something new every day from News, Sports, Finance, Entertainment and more!455 votes, 52 comments. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. Last week, one of our TNF Athletes Shawn Raboutou announced a first ascent of “Alphane” in Switzerland, which may become the world’s third V17 boulder ever. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in. m. EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects,. This video reflects on the good and bad of my 1-4-7 journey. It’s a powerful problem on a big boulder at the edge of a field in Val Bavona, Switzerland. After Spending 10 days on the replica in the Lattice Training Center, and 3 weeks projecting in Lappnor Finland, Will Bosi sent Burden of Dreams on April. In December, he redpointed V15 and flashed V13/14 in a single day. Shawn Raboutou is absolutely on fire right now. Check out @shawnraboutou- & @mellowclimbing My clothing brand: by Markus SkaaneIntro footage from Ben NeilsonEdited by Magnus M. Today on Instagram, he finally put those rumours to bed with his announcement of his first ascent of the longstanding Megatron project in Colorado’s. In late 2022, Simon Lorenzi made the fourth ascent of Alphane V17 in Fionnay, Switzerland. With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. Bouldering is the discipline of climbing in which we have seen the most exponential growth in the past decade. television from adventure filmmakers Sender Films, marking the first series dedicated to rock climbing ever to be aired on U. Download the app . The withdrawal force per inch of penetration can be estimated as F = 2850 (0. There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. Alphane was established by Shawn Raboutou earlier this year. There are about five V17s established in the world, with most of them awaiting second ascents and grade confirmations. News. The world’s third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright. . The 40-minute film showcases many Roberts hardest sends including Alphane 9A, Isles of Wonder Sit V16, and Vecchio Leone Sit V16. Alphane was “quite a long process,” Lorenzi told Climbing. EP 169: Scott Johnston — A. Bolts would be better but maybe overkill. Bosi sent the V17 boulder problem while working with Aidan Roberts, who accomplished the route’s first. Originally graded 5. . Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Based solely on grade, the title of world’s hardest boulder problem is currently shared by two problems: Burden of Dreams and Return of the Sleepwalker. Gripped December 16, 2022. American climber Shawn Raboutou made a historic first ascent of Alphane (V17), in Chironico, Switzerland, back in April. I think it's less about reaching the max of what humans can do, and more about the margins involved making it so unlikely to find individual V17 moves in nature. Raboutou himself disclosed nothing about the climb in the post — other than the name and. ”Matt Fultz Nabs First Repeat of Vecchio Leone Sit (V16). Video of Simon Lorenzi Sending Alphane V17 Just Dropped Gripped November 17, 2023. The only other suggested V17 is Nalle Hukkataival’s 2016 problem Burden of Dreams, located in the forests of Finland. Charles Barkley has been roasted plenty o. Rumoured to have been climbed long before this recent announcement, Raboutou continues to show himself as a leader in outdoor boulder. It’s pretty long for a boulder so there’s a lot of moves and. Dreams was the first proposed V17 after the Finnish climber took the problem down in September 2016, following over 4,000 attempts and six seasons. Update August 22, 2022: In conjunction with The. In 2021, he made the first ascent of King Capella (9b/5. During my Swiss trip for the first RedBull Dual Ascent competition on the Verzasca dam, I had the opportunity to explore the astonishing bouldering area of C. It's. It happened. That’s simply because the route has been known about and attempted for years. Though unverified by Climbing, rumors circulate that Raboutou has also sent the Megatron project, in Colorado, another presumed V17. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). Who will be the next to repeat this climb that was first repeated by Will Bosi in 2023. It's not that some hard climb is a v17 or isn't. 8K. 15d (9c) by Alex Megos, Ghisolfi downgraded Bibliographie to 5. Everything about the problem is difficult. Earlier this month, Bosi threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Around 2 p. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. " - Climbing MagazineHe was the first to repeat Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17, and he’s put up numerous V16 first ascents, including the U. Simon Lorenzi is one of the best boulderers in the world. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. This afternoon, Raboutou. This week's video is the much anticipated, feature length film from Mellow showcasing Shawn Rabatou's epic new line, Alphane. Aidan is, hands down, one of the strongest climbers the UK has ever produced! He began his career as a comp climber, however, in more recent years, he has turned his attention to incredible feats on boulders outdoors! He claimed the second ascent of Alphane (V17/9A) in Switzerland in October 2022; closely followed by fellow Lattice Athlete. "The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route. Aiden Roberts talked about this difference on a recent. I think this shows the strength of modern boulderers and the rarity of V17 rock. According to Bosi, Terranova has “some of the worst crimps and pinches [he’s] used,” which says a lot for someone who repeated both Burden of Dreams V17 and Alphane V17. instead of projecting Alphane or Megatron, then it seems pretty likely he would have a similar “résumé. In 2021, Daniel Woods made the first ascent of Return of the Sleepwalker and graded it V17 – watch his send here. Alphane. Natalie Berry UKC. Both are currently graded V17 (9A). “Everyone still thinks of me as only a lead climber. 1. But Bosi was reluctant to affirm the difficulty. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. Check out this exclusive interview with the man with the strongest fingers in the business! Nice one Will!He believes the grade is lower-end V16, harder than his recent send of Forgotten Gem V15 but easier than Honey Badger V16 or Alphane V17. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14s, 12 V15s two V16s, and one V17. . Eastern time, Shawn Raboutou reported the first ascent of “Alphane,” V17, in Fionnay, Switzerland. "I personally felt that 'Honey Badger' (V16) was more of a challenge for me. Ouça EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style e 233 episódios mais de The Nugget Climbing Podcast, de graça! Sem a necessidade de instalar ou se inscrever Climbing Gold — Hot Henry. ’. In 2022 alone, he climbed eleven V14’s, twelve V15’s, two V16’s, and one V17. Listen to your favorite songs from Alphane V17 by Hestal Now. Gripped December 16, 2022. Daniel Woods spends a month in Fionnay, Switzerland taking on the area's classics and establishing one himself. In 2022 alone, Bosi climbed. EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic. It features Roberts making the first ascents of Out of Shadows (v13), Back for Seconds. In October, Bosi also repeated Alphane V17. The problem was put up last year by American climber Shawn Raboutou but it wasn't until this summer that he announced the ascent. Hoping around 6' tall. Alphane V17 (9A) (Shaw Raboutou doing the FA, and the Mellow crew) Sessions: Kingdom Wall (Aidan doing the FA of a V15/8C) Aidan Roberts Crushing in Colorado. On October 20, Aidan Roberts made the second ascent of “Alphane,” a V17 established by Shawn Raboutou in Switzerland last spring. 15b) in Margalef, Spain, on the last day of 2015. Rock climbing without ropes, bouldering relies on specialized gear (pads and shoes) and techniques for training and protection closer to the ground. Gripped June 4, 2023 Will Bosi has released a film that documents his send of Alphane V17, as well as ascents of Forgotten Gem V15 and Vecchio Flash V13. At the forefront of this movement are a group of elite athletes. Shawn Raboutou making his ascent of Alphane (V17) ©MattyHong. Another Link Cam failure, climber hit the deck. 15’s) resumes of any climber. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed. I think it's less about reaching the max of what humans can do, and more about the margins involved making it so unlikely to find individual V17 moves in nature. Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of 'Alphane' (V17), Evades Grade Question. The boulder sits left of Alphane Moon, a classic V11, and was discovered by climber Dave. Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. 15b) graded sport climbing route (King Capella in 2021), and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to. "In total he spent 24 days working the problem and this is the longest Bosi has spent on a single boulder problem - by comparison, Alphane at Chironico in Switzerland took 12. How he sent the route has given us a modern template for what top-level climbing may become. It's nestled in Fionnay, Switzerland, amid other gnarly climbs like Raboutou's own “F*ck the System” (V16). Aidan Roberts is a 23-year-old from the UK, who has emerged as one of the strongest boulderers in the world. The interesting thing about Shawn is that there are consistently rumors of him sending hard boulders without posting about it or telling social media. It has since seen two repeats , one by Aidan Roberts , who got the first repeat later in the year in October and then by Scot Will Bosi in November of the same year. Check out the latest. . Woods dubbed the new line Return of the Sleepwalker and graded it V17. With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. It took Coley three years of effort over 26 sessions to send the problem. Listen to EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style and 264 more episodes by The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Gripped August 22, 2022. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. Everyone said the same thing about Dreamtime 22 years ago but it's still a benchmarkIn the first, we get some fun send footage from Bosi’s fall 2022 Swiss trip, in which he climbed Alphane (V17) and Forgotten Gem (V15), and flashed the ultra-classic Vecchio Leone (V13). The list of people who have sent 15b and v16 is: Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Sean Bailey, Carlo Traversi, Will Bosi. Bosi has wracked up a mind-boggling ticklist over the past year, including three V14s flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger (V16), and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou's Alphane (V17). Nick Brown UKC. IMO this is NOT an indication of the grade as there's so few V17's and even V16's for choose from that it shouldn't be ridiculous that when a more approachable line is put up (approach, conditions, hold quality etc. Listen anywhere. This route might well have the best claim to V17 of recent proposals. Pictures and analysis included. The Erbesfield-Raboutou family is the climbing equivalent of The Incredibles. Stream ad-free with Amazon Music Unlimited on mobile, desktop, and tablet. Download the app . . Last month, he threw down three hard problems in Germany in a single session—a V14 flash, a V14 redpoint, and a V11 flash. Aidan Roberts, 21, has made the first repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17 at Chironico, Switzerland. 10/7/11 - Another ascent of Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life in the Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia, has flown under the radar for about a week. The V17 climber adds another problem to his ever-growing tick list of hard boulders. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V1The cherry on top came over the last few weeks, during which Kiersch had the best bouldering trip of her life, in Magic Wood, Switzerland. 6 sessions in Alphane might be the same number of quality tries as 10 in Burden (hypothetical numbers). [/quote] Given the access and Lorenzi's/Robert's apparent progress, my money is on Alphane being repeated before. The world's third V17 boulder problem has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the line in August 2022. Woods, who has established his own V17 and numerous V16s, has put quite a lot of effort into the sit start and other talented climbers have tried the problem without success, including Drew Ruana, who estimates he has spent 70 days trying the project. Alphane was the world's 4th 9A after Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul. After trying but before sending Burden of Dreams V17, Bosi told Climbing in an interview, “ [Terranova] is for sure still the hardest boulder I’ve tried. Alphane has become the most repeated V17 boulder in the world (excluding Soudain Seul and No Kpote Only since grades are disputed). Listen to EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training For Alphane V17, The Power Of Replicas, And Embracing Your Style and 234 more episodes by The Nugget Climbing Podcast. Search query. With Send of ‘Alphane,’ Aidan Roberts Nabs First-Ever V17 Repeat. After Spending 10 days on the replica in the Lattice Training Center, and 3 weeks projecting in Lappnor Finland, Will Bosi sent Burden of Dreams on April. Ghisolfi is one of the world’s best sport climbers. At 24, Aidan Roberts just became the fourth climber in the world to successfully send a V17. Posted by u/WhatTheHorcrux - 169 votes and 46 commentsalphane. Since Hukkataival ascent, several other V17s have been claimed. 18th November, 2022. Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) finally sees a repeat by Scottish climber Will Bosi. Alphane breaks down into a V14 followed by a V15, or just nine really hard moves in a row, says Raboutou. com - Will Bosi has released a film that documents his send of Alphane V17, as well as ascents of Forgotten Gem V15 and Vecchio Flash V13. The North Face team returns to Switzerland with the goal to establish cutting edge first ascents. Alphane, V17 Alphane is located in Ticino, Switzerland and was originally climbed by American Shawn Raboutou in August 2022. You can watch his and Bertone’s. Dwelling » Climbing » Will Bosi Claims Third Ascent of ‘Alphane’ (V17), Evades Grade Query The world’s third V17 boulder drawback has now seen two repeats since Shawn Raboutou first established the road in August 2022. When asked about it, he simply replied, “I have another cool video coming out soon. We talked about training for his trip to Switzerland to try Alphane V17, differences among top boulderers, how Aidan developed his climbing style, addressing finger weaknesses, training using replicas, his goal-setting philosophy, plans to train for Burden of Dreams V17, considering our environmental impact as climbers, and much more. Ephyra V16 (8C+) is located in Switzerland and was originally climbed by Jimmy. 20th August, 2022. Trying hard is more the consequence of me doing everything else perfectly: of staying calm, clear minded, and executing the moves. Since his 2018 ascent of Off the Wagon SDS Shawn has continued to cement his reputation by establishing many hard problems at 8C+ and above, including Big Z, Fuck the System and The Story. This is just two athletes though. Shawn Raboutou has belatedly announced an ascent of Alphane in Chironico last year and proposed the grade of 9A. Earlier this month, he made the coveted second ascent of Burden of. He hit the deck and sustained minor injury to his feet, hips and back. ’s first two V16’s: Superpowers and Isles of. But where did he come from? Well, if you need a primer on Will Bosi’s plot arc—and how his abandonment of comps played into that—Adidas Terrex has a great new video about his journey to the top of the bouldering. This year however, she took quite a slump and barely made three. Directed by Long Truong and Julie Ellison, Girls. ’s Peak District. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, where Shawn Raboutou has announced his new mind-boggling difficult Font 9A: Megatron. Aaron Pardy November 17, 2022. Raboutou claimed the first ascent of “Megatron,” V17, his most recent mega-hard Colorado project. We caught up with Aidan to chat about it. . The month prior, he ticked the world’s hardest bouldering grade with his repeat of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane V17. As previously mentioned, Burden of Dreams is the groundbreaking climb that made V17 bouldering a reality. It’s nestled in Fionnay, Switzerland, amid other gnarly climbs like Raboutou’s own. com. Raboutou has had quite the year of climbing, already establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds as well as the V17 Alphane. The latter took him. K. Shawn Raboutou on Burden. Download the app . TLDR: Training for the 1-4-7 by only campusing is a bad way to train because the progress is too. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17. Países. Becoming the first 9A/V17 in Switzerland and only the third in the world, Alphane is the latest and greatest example of Rabatou's talents, clearing defining him as one of the very best bouldererA 70m is enough with the stretch. Climbers Ski Baffin’s Epic Polar Star Couloir Gripped November 16, 2023. Will Bosi has dropped the video of his send of Alphane—and Lattice has dropped a longer video about Bosi’s training history. After American climber Sean Raboutou, 24, publicly announced his send of Alphane V17 in August, rumours swirled that he had actually sent another V17 as well. In this week's Ticklist, Rob Greenwood talks us through Shawn Raboutou's new Font 9A/V17 in Chironico, Switzerland, a problem that has been kept quiet for th. First climbed in Spring 2022, Alphane has already seen four ascents (by Shawn Raboutou, Aidan Roberts, Will Bosi, and Simon Lorenzi), which makes it the. This is the fourth and fifth established V17 in the world next to Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker, and Simon Lorenzi’s Soudain Seul. K. Newsflash. Belgium’s Simon Lorenzi, best known for making the first ascent of Soudain Seul—a. The only other suggested V17 is Nalle Hukkataival’s 2016 problem Burden of Dreams, located in the forests of Finland. Download the app . “My Uncut send footage of potentially my longest boulder project,” Bosi said, “adding a low start to Wild West V13. 6" - 40mm - deep 3 finger pocket. By 1995, he'd made 2,000 ascents of the line. Or maybe it is just that Alphane offers more days of reliable conditions, vs. But Drew is certainly building one of the most impressive bases of 14s, 15s, and 16s while also studying for an engineering degree. 5K subscribers in the socalclimbing community. In 2022 he established not one but two V17s, with the first ascents of Alphane and Megatron. If confirmed, it will become the fourth 9A in the world alongside Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, Daniel Woods' Return of the Sleepwalker and. Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. Kinda makes sense as a process, actually, and is likely more effective than bludgeoning the climb for 4 months straight. So the simple session count is an imperfect measure of how much time/effort the boulder took, and how hard the boulder is. Except Bosi didn’t actually go visit Finland (that land of fickle weather) until this week. Shawn on Megatron V17 – Photo from Shawn Raboutou’s Instagram. Shawn was asked about it and basically said that while he's not really keeping it secret, he just doesn't like to blab about his ascents. Gripped June 4, 2023. . Shawn Raboutou is the only boulderer in the world right now with 2 9A/V17 ascents under his belt. Will Bosi, a 23-year-old from Edinburgh, nabbed the second repeat of “Alphane” in Ticino, Switzerland, this week. Aidan Roberts has repeated Alphane (Font 9A) at Chironico, in Ticino, Switzerland. Watch the fourth ascent of Alphane, which was first climbed in spring 2022 by Shawn Raboutou. The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. The block is located in Lappnor, Finland, and was established by Nalle Hukkataival after three years and over 4,000 attempts – an incredible demonstration of persistence and willpower. Cody Townsend and team visited Baffin Island in May to ski the epic line. Last month, he threw down three hard problems.